

Our first two days here, we saw the sleek, clean, luxury side of Beijing. Today, we get the grittier side. Graffiti, litter and a back alley where the photo studio for Rey Fashion Magazine is located. To call the studio grim is a compliment, but the youthful Rey team compensates with their energy. The photographer and his assistants set up portable heaters and the electricity goes on and off. I realize how spoiled we are in New York. Our shiny, light-filled photo studios have coffee bars, smoothie menus, catered meals and something I had taken for granted—21st Century plumbing. There's potential here for some smart entrepreneur!
The hairdresser pulls Michelle’s thick locks into a high ponytail, the stylist puts her in a shimmery nude top and she applies her own makeup. She wants to use Le Crayon Khol in Blanc, her beloved white eyeliner pencil that she uses for a number of tricks, but she’s surprised to learn it’s not sold in China. The magazine is doing a step-by-step makeup story with her. This is a popular feature in all the Chinese fashion magazines and it’s like a printed version of a YouTube tutorial. Michelle poses in front of a white backdrop for the photographer, who for some reason is called Mr. Q. Everyone except Michelle is wearing a coat because the studio is…FREEZING! This will be a theme for the rest of the trip. The Beijingese seem to regard indoor heating the same way Parisians regard air conditioning. With great indifference.
The baby-faced Mr. Q snaps a few pictures then reviews them on an iPad. (They love Apple products here.) Avril Lavigne blasts from the sound system. The three constants on every shoot we participate in here? Avril, Ugg books and Elnett hairspray. The Chinese fashionistas we encounter love young female pop stars. Kelly Clarkson, Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga and Avril, Avril, Avril. They can’t get enough. Lunch is a spread of dumplings, mysterious but delicious stuffed doughy things and warm soy milk.
The afternoon is spent touring the 798 arts district. This might be the coolest part of our trip. 798 is a series of factory buildings converted to galleries, boutiques and restaurants, similar to New York’s SoHo back in the ‘80s. It’s bright, sunny and bitterly cold outside as we walk around. Somehow, two girls recognize Michelle behind her big sunglasses and squeal with delight. They pose for a few pictures then we head to a restaurant called Switch to meet the five finalists of the Lancome Chinese It Girl contest. Something gets lost in translation so we’re not entirely sure what the competition involved, but the girls are very nice and pepper Michelle with questions about her beauty routine, videos and personal life. Each of the girls presents Michelle with a gift.
Michelle has to pick one winner and she feels terrible about this. “I can’t pick all of them?” Our hosts shake their heads. "No."
A winner is declared and we head to the Ullens Center for Contemporary Art (UCCA) to view “Moon in Glass” by artist Ling Jian. The exhibit features a series of round portraits of young Chinese women with exaggerated features, almost alien like, some of them crying. They're really beautiful and haunting. Primary-colored circular mirrors are interspersed with the paintings. You can contemplate yourself contemplating the paintings.
We’re a bit exhausted, so dinner is a mellow affair at Bei, one of the restaurants in the basement of Opposite House. We finish and drag over to rehearsals for tomorrow’s Teint Miracle launch event. The space, across from the hotel, looks like a construction site, but Jerome insists everything is on schedule. He shows us where Michelle’s “apartment” will be located and walks Michelle through her presentation. In 12 hours, we’ll meet China’s top beauty editors and bloggers. We’re looking forward to it.
Photos: A Rey editor, Rey magazine, on set, in the dressing room, Michelle with the Rey team, lunch, the 798 district, a fan finds Michelle, the It Girl finalists, the Moon in Glass exhibit.
